A washing machine that won’t drain leaves you with a drum full of dirty, soapy water and a load you can’t dry. The good news: many drainage issues come from simple, fixable causes you can check yourself before calling a technician.
Use this step-by-step guide to identify the problem safely and decide whether it’s a quick DIY fix or time for professional washer repair.
Before You Start: Safety First
- Unplug the washer.
Always disconnect the machine from the power outlet before inspecting hoses, filters, or internal parts. - Turn off water supply if needed.
If you expect to disconnect hoses, close the hot and cold water valves. - Prepare for water spills.
Keep towels, a shallow tray, and a bucket nearby. Opening the filter or hose can release a lot of water.
Quick Checks (1–2 Minutes)
Start with the fastest, simplest checks:
- Is the cycle actually finished?
Sometimes the washer pauses or gets stuck mid-cycle. Check the display or indicator lights. - Is there a visible error code?
Note any code shown on the panel. It often points to drainage, door lock, or pump issues (e.g., “OE”, “E21”, “F9E1”, etc.). - Is the washer door locked?
Many machines will not open if they still detect water inside.
If the machine is clearly stuck on the drain or spin phase, continue with the steps below.
Step 1: Try “Drain & Spin” or Cancel and Restart
- Cancel the current program (use the “Cancel/Reset” button if available).
- Select “Drain & Spin” or a similar cycle.
- Start it and listen: do you hear the drain pump humming or water flowing into the drain hose?
If it now drains normally:
The original cycle may have glitched. Monitor the next few loads. If the issue repeats, continue with the other steps.
If it still doesn’t drain:
Move on to checking the drain hose.
Step 2: Check the Drain Hose
The drain hose is one of the most common causes of drainage problems.
- Inspect hose position and height.
- The hose should go up to the recommended height (usually about 80–120 cm from the floor, as per your manual).
- If it’s too low or lying flat on the floor, water can siphon out or flow incorrectly.
- Look for kinks and crush points.
- Pull the machine slightly away from the wall.
- Check that the hose is not sharply bent, pinched, or crushed behind the washer.
- Check for clogs at the drain end.
- Remove the hose from the standpipe or sink.
- Inspect the end of the hose and the drain inlet for lint, coins, or sludge.
- Run water through the hose from a tap or with a jug. It should flow freely.
If the hose was kinked or clogged and you fixed it:
Reconnect, secure it properly, and retry a drain cycle.
Step 3: Clean the Pump Filter / Coin Trap
Most front-load washers and some top-load models have a pump filter (often behind a small panel at the bottom front of the machine).
- Locate the filter access panel.
Check the lower front of the washer for a small door or cover. - Prepare for water.
Place a tray/towels underneath. There may be a lot of water inside. - Open and remove the filter.
Turn the cap counter-clockwise and pull it out.
Clear any trapped items: coins, hairpins, paper clips, lint, buttons, or small socks. - Inspect inside the filter housing.
Feel inside gently for further debris or small objects. - Rinse and reinstall.
Rinse the filter under running water, then reinstall it firmly, making sure it seals correctly.
Run a “Drain & Spin” cycle again.
If the machine now drains, the blocked filter was the cause.
Step 4: Check the Drain Pump and Internal Hoses
If the pump filter is clean but your washer still won’t drain, the problem might be in the pump or internal hoses.
Signs of pump issues:
- Loud grinding, rattling, or buzzing sound when the pump runs
- No sound at all from the pump during the drain phase
- Repeated drainage error codes
Basic checks you can do safely:
- With power off and filter removed, shine a light inside and look at the pump impeller (the small fan inside).
- Make sure nothing is wedged in the impeller (e.g., a nail, coin, or piece of fabric).
- Gently try to spin the impeller with a small tool. It should move freely, not be completely jammed.
If you see water leaks, damaged hoses, or a burnt smell, stop DIY work. These signs indicate a pump that may need replacement by a professional technician.
Step 5: Door Lock / Lid Switch Problems
Modern washers will not drain or spin if they think the door or lid is open.
Possible symptoms:
- Error codes related to “door”, “lid”, or “lock”
- The door doesn’t click or latch firmly
- Washer fills but doesn’t move to drain or spin
Basic checks:
- Inspect the door latch area for broken plastic, bent metal parts, or foreign objects.
- Make sure no clothing is trapped in the door seal.
- For top-loaders, ensure the lid closes fully and the hinge is not loose.
Door lock assemblies and lid switches can often be replaced, but this usually involves opening the cabinet. If you are not comfortable with electrical parts, it’s safer to call a technician.
Step 6: Error Codes and What to Do
If your washer shows an error code:
- Write down the exact code.
- Power-cycle the washer: unplug for 2–3 minutes, plug back in, and try again.
- If the same code returns, it’s often a specific hint (e.g., drain timeout, blocked pump, door lock fault).
You can look up the code in the user manual or manufacturer’s website for your model. If the code points to pump or control board issues, that’s typically beyond “simple” home fixes.
Step 7: Check Load Size and Detergent Use
Sometimes the problem is not the hardware, but how the washer is used.
- Overloading:
An overloaded drum can prevent proper spinning and drainage. Heavy items like blankets, rugs, and towels can unbalance the load.- Remove some items and run a Drain & Spin cycle again.
- Too much or wrong detergent:
Excess suds can confuse water level sensors and slow drainage.- Use only HE (high-efficiency) detergent in HE washers.
- Follow the recommended dosage, especially for soft water or small loads.
- If you suspect oversudsing, run an extra rinse and spin cycle with no detergent.
When to Call a Professional
DIY checks are usually enough if:
- You found a kinked or clogged hose
- The pump filter was blocked with debris
- The machine drains normally after clearing these issues
You should stop DIY and call a professional if:
- The washer still will not drain after you checked hose and filter
- The pump makes loud noises or doesn’t run at all
- You see leaks, burning smell, or broken wiring
- Error codes indicate pump, control board, or sensor faults
- You’re not comfortable opening panels or working near electrical parts
For reliable service, schedule a professional washer repair visit. An experienced technician can quickly diagnose pump failures, electronic faults, and wiring issues, and replace parts safely.